Domaine Ostertag Riesling “Les Jardins” 2023

Domaine Ostertag was founded in 1966 in Epfig, in Alsace’s Bas Rhin, and became especially influential under André Ostertag, who took over in 1980 after studying winemaking in Burgundy. André helped push Alsace toward more terroir focused, lower intervention wines and converted the vineyards to certified organic farming in 1997, later incorporating biodynamic methods. His son Arthur began working closely with the domaine in 2016 and assumed leadership in 2018. Today the estate farms about 15 hectares spread across numerous small parcels, with riesling at the heart of the domaine.

Les Jardins is 100% riesling assembled from roughly a dozen parcels around Epfig, encompassing clay, sandstone, sand and volcanic deposits. The vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically, with individual sites contributing different elements of fruit, texture and minerality. For the 2023, whole bunches were gently pressed for approximately nine hours before spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel. The wine completed malolactic fermentation and then spent a full year on its fine lees in stainless steel before bottling. No oak is used, keeping the emphasis on fruit, soil and the naturally energetic structure of riesling.

The 2023 shows white peach, green and yellow apple, mandarin and lime with white flowers and subtle ginger and herbal notes. The palate is dry and gently rounded from the extended lees aging, but bright acidity and a pronounced saline streak keep it taut and refreshing. The finish is clean, stony and persistent, with citrus zest and a subtle savory edge.