Domaine Bartschi Chardonnay ‘Sous Les Rochers La Vigne’ Cru Manicle 2023

From importer Cason of Terres Balnches: 

The Bugey region forms the southern extension of France’s limestone-rich Jura mountains. In its southwest, between the villages of Cheignieu-la-Balme and Pugieu, the 12-hectare cru Manicle sits beneath a dramatic limestone cliff. From this striking setting, Clément Bärtschi is crafting some of the most exciting wines to emerge from this once-overlooked corner of France.

Born in Bugey and raised in Lyon, Clément spent his childhood on his grandparents’ farm in Boyeux-Saint-Jérôme, where the landscapes and vineyards of the region left a lasting impression. Before returning to wine, he pursued a professional rugby career, reaching the senior team of ASVEL in Villeurbanne and earning selection for the Swiss national squad in 2004. Alongside rugby, he prepared for life after sport with degrees in microbiology (Lyon) and enology (Bordeaux).

After retiring, Clément interned at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti before joining Michel Chapoutier in Tain-l’Hermitage in 2010, where he rose to become head winemaker - a role he still holds today. There, he deepened his understanding of great Northern Rhône terroirs, biodynamics, and single-parcel expression.

In 2019, Clément acquired 3 hectares in the Manicle cru, planted to old-vine chardonnay, massale pinot noir, and a small amount of gamay. He converted the vineyards to organic farming (certified in 2022) and now integrates biodynamic practices. He also produces small négociant wines from native varieties such as jacquère and altesse, sourced from organic growers in Bugey and Savoie.

His winemaking is Burgundian in spirit: hand-harvested fruit, indigenous yeasts, whole-cluster pressing for whites, and restrained oak. The result is a rare convergence of site and talent—expressive, precise wines that signal a new chapter for this tiny alpine appellation.