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Vilmart & Cie Champagne Brut 1er Cru Grand Cellier NV
Vilmart & Cie is one of the great small grower Champagne estates of the Montagne de Reims, based in Rilly la Montagne and run today by Laurent Champs, the fifth generation of the family. Founded in 1890, the domaine farms about 11 hectares, with chardonnay making up the majority of the vineyards despite the village being better known for pinot noir. Vilmart is particularly respected for making Champagne from its own vineyards and treating the still base wines with the same seriousness as a fine white wine.
The vineyards are farmed sustainably with a strong organic philosophy. Vilmart has long avoided herbicides, chemical fertilizers and insecticides, uses cover crops, and incorporates some biodynamic practices. The estate's Premier Cru vineyards around Rilly la Montagne include clay and limestone soils, and the relatively old vines contribute to the richness and concentration that distinguish the wines.
Grand Cellier is the estate's signature non vintage Champagne, a 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir blend from Premier Cru vineyards. Unlike most Champagne producers, Vilmart ferments and ages the base wine in large oak foudres for around ten months, and deliberately blocks malolactic fermentation. This is an important part of the Vilmart style: the oak gives the wine breadth and texture, while retaining malic acidity gives it energy, precision and freshness. The wine then spends roughly 30 months on its lees in bottle before release.
The result is a Champagne that feels considerably more like a serious white Burgundy than a straightforward aperitif Champagne. It has a creamy, layered texture with citrus, pear, white flowers, pastry and subtle spice, but underneath that richness is a firm mineral backbone and lively acidity. The current Grand Cellier is dosed around 7 to 8 g/L, enough to round out the wine without making it feel sweet. It is a particularly good choice for someone who likes Champagne with texture, depth and vinous character rather than simply lots of bubbles.
